| Here
is a great holding fixture from Steve Kinnaird, it doesn't interfere
with the sides of the guitar. The cross arms are cork lined
and radiused to match the arch of the top. The cork lined holding
dog pivots thru the sound hole and then is tighten down with
a wing nut on the threaded rod. The vertical support can then
be held in vise leaving the sides totally unobstructed. |
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Need
a custom scale? Here are two links to fret placement calculators.
This link is for a free Windows program that you can download
by clicking
here. For an on line calculator click
here. This is a
metric calculator and the site has some other good information. |
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Ever
have a work piece slip in your vise's wood jaws? If you line your
jaws with these little rubber jar opening grippers the piece will
not slip under even the greatest pressure
These little guys are in the kitchen gadget section of your supermarket
and cost about a buck. |
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Varying string
diameters make getting the string spacing visually correct a tedious
trial and error process. Here is an Excel spreadsheet courtesy of
the GAL magazine that calculates the string centers in millimeters
for various nut widths and string weights. Also includes a string
tension calculator. Right mouse click the image and choose "...save
target as" to download. (Mac users option click) |
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| Here
is a second spread sheet from Steve Mayo that calculates nut spacing
in inches. Right mouse click the image and choose "...save target
as" to download. (Mac users option click). Double clicking will
fire up "Excel" if you have it on your system. |
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Ever
feel like your wrangling
cats when binding an instrument ?
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| This
little wonder is from Bo Walker. Bo first glues an inch or so of the
purflings and then uses this elegant little jig to manage the lines
as he glues his bindings. The brush is a hobby shop item that has
had most of the bristle cut off so it is quite stiff and spreads the
glue evenly. |
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Here is another
from Bo. Its a "Spiro-Graph"
for grown ups. The patterns are the asymmetric sound holes for a
Selmer reproduction
that he is making. The templates are made from thin model plywood.
The disks are have a radius of the I.D. & O.D. of the rosette.
By holding the template in place and using a pencil as the axle,
he rolls the disk around the template for a perfect layout.
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| Bo
intends to adapt this to actually cut the rosette channels and we
look forward to showing you how he worked that out very soon. |
| This
is a Steve Kinnaird jig for making rosettes off of the soundboard.
The center disk is the ID of the ring. Around the perimeter are dowels
that plug into holes on the workboard and have been threaded to accept
the thumb screws . Before use Steve covers the surface around the
rosette with wax and then assembles the whole ring dry. Once everything
is in place he floods the assembly with super glue. |

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| When
Bo saw the genius of Steve's dry assembly method he dashed home and
created his own version of Steve's jig. Bo used maple cam clamps,
wax paper and masking tape covered disk. Click
here or the picture for a complete article on this jig. |
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| Here
is a slick device by John Fitzgerald to cover the soundhole while
spraying finish. The hinged disk is slightly larger than the soundhole.
The block that presses against the back is threaded. You flip up the
flap to insert in the sound box, open the flap and then turn the disk
counter clockwise to raise the disk to the back of the sound hole.
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This is a layout
aid to draw the fret height on the nut. Just a block of wood with
a small groove that holds a .5mm lead from mechanical pencil. Draw
a second line to denote the string depth by tapping a 1/16"
brass shim to the underside. |
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These next
two are from Steve Lamb. Steve is a professional repair man.
The first is
this drill guide to accurately drill dowels holes to repair a broken
neck. The u-shaped cutout fits around the trussrod nut. Steve leave
the break as undisturbed as possible and uses 1/4" threaded
rods as dowels. When the neck and head are both drilled he reassembles
using epoxy glue. |
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This is Steve's
jig for pressing in frets. It consists of an aluminum I-beam that
has adjustable posts and two clamps to fasten the jig to the neck.
Steve uses the press screw with an appropriate caul to press in
frets. Steve is thinking about marketing these, if you think you
would be interested in having one click
here to e-mail Steve. |
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Here is Steve
Mayo's binding channel cutter. It is built around a Stu Mac Dremel
router base. Steve prefers the Black & Decker rotary tool over
the Dremel. The base has screw feed micrometer adjustment. The wooden
foot is rounded in a cone shape and in use is kept pressed against
the side to keep the cutter perpendicular at all time. With this
type tool it is essential the the cutter is held tangent to the
side to insure a consistent depth cut. With the wooden foot removed
Steve also uses this as a rosette channel cutter by revolving the
base around a pin at the center of the sound hole. |
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This is a band
saw jig that Steve Mayo uses to cut binding strips. It consists
of a guide block that has two guide shims the same thickness as
the binding to be cut. The shims are set to the width of the stock
to be cut and locked in place with the wing nuts. The jig is then
clamped to the saws table with the blade riding in a saw kerf at
the front of the lower block. The work piece is pulled through the
jig past the saw blade and neatly cut to a consistent width. |
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| Ed
Schaefer uses this neat jig to pre-bend the laminated bindings that
he uses on his headstock. |
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Here is a nifty shop built drilling jig that Bo Walker uses to drill
his tuning machine holes. Note the two pins that index the jig against
the side of the peg head. |
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This is David
Adam's version of a side bending machine. He hasn't tested it yet
(just finished putting it together) but there is no reason why it
shouldn't work. He used a quick-grip clamp turned spreader instead
of a screw (the rest is standard issue Fox bender). |
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